...Not that I've ever had any doubts about my sexual orientation, but... I, Suki Mokkie... RODE THE NURBURGRING. To those unfamiliar with the concept, you may as well give up trying to comprehend it now, but for those who do.. you know... Riding the nurburg is like a right of passage for bikers or car nuts. Not too dissimilar to popping your cherry, your first kiss (for girls that is) or sprouting your first short and curlies. We did it and man does it put some hairs on your chest.
We got there and the weather was brilliant. A little damp, but sunny. They were letting drivers on just as we got there. So we strolled up to the ticket office, and bought 2 laps each, each at a bargain 19 euros a lap. Boy were we not prepared. This course is immense. A true behemoth. 20km (thats about 14 miles for us brits) of unyielding bends (all 73 of them), straights, hairpins, s bends etc... varying a massive 300m from the lowest point to the highest. No wonder its regarded as the most challenging track on the planet.
You start at the middle of the long straight and start by pulling it all the way, more or less into top speed. Then it hits you. You can't see any of the exits. Just blind curve after blind curve. Some hiding behind the hill climb and some behind the trees of the beautifully dense forests. It was one of the most scariest experiences of my life. My brakes seemed to be made of sponges, all my gears were in the wrong place, and I was making a whole new definition of riding 'off' the racing line. The track is so bumpy and the bends so difficult. You really do need to know it by heart to really be able to push it. This, in addition to the fact my left mirror would flip back as soon as I would reach 80mph (which was the majority of the time) and I was being constantly overtaken by other (extremely fast) bikers, Porsche GT3s, M5s, Corvettes and at two points, a clio and a mini! Although, in my defense, it was a cooper S and the clio had been race modified :)
It was no surprise then that I had a few hairy moments. The worst being the time I totally misjudged, or should I say 'completely didn't see the turn' and slammed on all brakes making the bike slide, wiggle, skid and slither towards the red and white kerbing at the outside of the turn. You've all seen it. You know, when you see a bike start to lose control and wiggle frantically, and you sit there thinking, is he gonna lose it? is he gonna keep it upright? he's gonna go, oh no he's not...! Luckily, I managed to hold it together and make the turn. After we finished our laps and were talking about the track, we agreed with each other that that was potentially a very dangerous experience. I can't wait to go back next year... whos up for it?! (I'm serious)
After that momentus experience, and having ticked it off our list of things to do before you snuff it, we went for a big 'man steak' and Franzishofer beer to celebrate. Dan excitedly puts on his Nurburgring t shirt we bought the day before as soon as we get back in and we sit and re-live the badly riddem 2 laps. Wake up next morning, still with a big Cheshire cat grin on our faces and back on the bikes.
I'm in Utrecht in Holland now. Been crashing at Dan's friend's place for a few days. Mark has been extremely kind and driven us around to see the sights, such as the old industrial area where the traditional windmills are still running, the fishermans docks, the place where they make and sell Goda cheese and make clogs and of course an obligatory quick stroll around the red light district of Amsterdam. The rest of the time has been occupied with watching a LOT of films, playing PS2 and relaxing with a little locally produced herbal remedies... just a little.
Off tmrw morning to Brussels. Last week of the trip now. So will see you homies soon. Take care all.
Sukz.
Sunday, October 7, 2007
Thursday, October 4, 2007
Rain stopped play.
Ok so it wasn't rain. It was dense, dense blimming fog. Visibility was about 10m. So the track officials called it a day and closed the track. Damnit. We'd already bought the t shirts! Dan was especially disappointed. I could see those big bear eyes welling up. Big girl.
So, we waited until this morning. Called the ring to check on the weather. THey said they should be open today. Legend. So, we book another night at the Koln station hostel and prepare yet again for one of the greatest tracks in existence. We're off in half an hour.
Oh yeah before I forget. For those who watch Top Gear and saw the german girl who drove the transit van around the circuit in a record time. We saw her! She was driving a BMW M5 taking tourists around the track as part of a Nurburgring 'taxi'service. She would blast the M5 into the carpark. Pick up some poor unsuspecting victims and literally burn it out onto the track. All this with a huge grin on her face. I think shes a bit of a local celebrity. Lots of people recognised her. She was flipping fast as well. Would complete the circuit pretty quick. What a job. Theres also a BMW M4 racing school there. Will show you a pic of the fleet of M4s they have at the track. Incredible!
Fingers crossed the weather holds up for us! Will update you soon...
S
So, we waited until this morning. Called the ring to check on the weather. THey said they should be open today. Legend. So, we book another night at the Koln station hostel and prepare yet again for one of the greatest tracks in existence. We're off in half an hour.
Oh yeah before I forget. For those who watch Top Gear and saw the german girl who drove the transit van around the circuit in a record time. We saw her! She was driving a BMW M5 taking tourists around the track as part of a Nurburgring 'taxi'service. She would blast the M5 into the carpark. Pick up some poor unsuspecting victims and literally burn it out onto the track. All this with a huge grin on her face. I think shes a bit of a local celebrity. Lots of people recognised her. She was flipping fast as well. Would complete the circuit pretty quick. What a job. Theres also a BMW M4 racing school there. Will show you a pic of the fleet of M4s they have at the track. Incredible!
Fingers crossed the weather holds up for us! Will update you soon...
S
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Nurburgring
I'm ill. Arse. Must have been the riding through the storm and thinking I could get away with just walking through Berlin with just a t shirt. That, and the plentiful and huge Bavavria beers we had when we met up with Dan's friends in the city. Its 6am now and I can't sleep.
We only spent 2 days in Berlin. One was spent riding there, and the other was spent visiting the Jewish Museum by Daniel Libeskind and drinking in a beautifully designed german pub directly under a railway bridge. The Museum was truly breaktaking and solely worth the visit to Berlin and we had a great night out with a pair of newlyweds that Dan used to work with.
Other than that we kinda missed the rest of Berlin because of the rain. It was a shame really. Didn't get to see the BrandenBurg gate properly or any of the other sites. This was also partly because the weekend we arrived they had like 3 city events going on and many main roads were shut off. (one being a marathon) Which also meant we paid extortionate prices for a hostel in the ghetto of Berlin.
One thing I forgot to mention was that while we were in Prague we decided to treat ourselves by going for a traditional Thai massage. I thought, after 3 weeks of solid riding, a relaxing massage would be well received. Little did I know it would be one of the most violent experiences of my life... She 'proper beat the living shit out of me'. She cracked ALL my joints, thumped me, bent me over backwards in some contorted WWF position and kicked me up in the air... had me in sleeper holds and tried bending things that werent meant to ever be bent. She was a joker as well. A tiny little thai woman with short chunky little musclar arms. She giggled a lot and talked a lot of crap in very bad english. But it was funny as hell. She kept stroking my leg hairs and goatie, which I'm sure isn't a traditional thai 'move', and kept saying... Ooooo sexy man... funny bitch.
Since Berlin we visiting Hannover and stayed for one night and then today moved onto Koln, where we're going to be staying for 4 days. Therefore... at last we can get some rest without having to wakeup at 9am to check out or do any manic siteseeing. Ah bliss. I'm going to go window shopping, read my book, eat giant Bratwurst and drink good cheap coffee. Now thats a holiday.
We're using Koln as a base to visit nearby frankfurt for a bit and then.... yes. TO the BEHEMOTH. The NURBURGRING!!! Theres an open track day on wednesday. 14 miles of pure racing pedigree track. WIll try to video the thing, but I'll if I want to risk losing my camcorder or not...
After this we're off to Utrect and Amsterdam for a few days to wind down before heading back home. Will back end of next week now. Gone by so quickly. I could do this forever...
Kinda.
S.
We only spent 2 days in Berlin. One was spent riding there, and the other was spent visiting the Jewish Museum by Daniel Libeskind and drinking in a beautifully designed german pub directly under a railway bridge. The Museum was truly breaktaking and solely worth the visit to Berlin and we had a great night out with a pair of newlyweds that Dan used to work with.
Other than that we kinda missed the rest of Berlin because of the rain. It was a shame really. Didn't get to see the BrandenBurg gate properly or any of the other sites. This was also partly because the weekend we arrived they had like 3 city events going on and many main roads were shut off. (one being a marathon) Which also meant we paid extortionate prices for a hostel in the ghetto of Berlin.
One thing I forgot to mention was that while we were in Prague we decided to treat ourselves by going for a traditional Thai massage. I thought, after 3 weeks of solid riding, a relaxing massage would be well received. Little did I know it would be one of the most violent experiences of my life... She 'proper beat the living shit out of me'. She cracked ALL my joints, thumped me, bent me over backwards in some contorted WWF position and kicked me up in the air... had me in sleeper holds and tried bending things that werent meant to ever be bent. She was a joker as well. A tiny little thai woman with short chunky little musclar arms. She giggled a lot and talked a lot of crap in very bad english. But it was funny as hell. She kept stroking my leg hairs and goatie, which I'm sure isn't a traditional thai 'move', and kept saying... Ooooo sexy man... funny bitch.
Since Berlin we visiting Hannover and stayed for one night and then today moved onto Koln, where we're going to be staying for 4 days. Therefore... at last we can get some rest without having to wakeup at 9am to check out or do any manic siteseeing. Ah bliss. I'm going to go window shopping, read my book, eat giant Bratwurst and drink good cheap coffee. Now thats a holiday.
We're using Koln as a base to visit nearby frankfurt for a bit and then.... yes. TO the BEHEMOTH. The NURBURGRING!!! Theres an open track day on wednesday. 14 miles of pure racing pedigree track. WIll try to video the thing, but I'll if I want to risk losing my camcorder or not...
After this we're off to Utrect and Amsterdam for a few days to wind down before heading back home. Will back end of next week now. Gone by so quickly. I could do this forever...
Kinda.
S.
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Czeching in...
Lame joke I know, but the place I'm staying in in Prague is actually called the Czech Inn. Its super modern here and quite luxurious. Designed by a local architect who apparently works at the reception??!! We're in a 12 bed dorm with a couple of brit girls and a few aussie lads.
Since Krakow we've stayed a night in Brno and then moved on the next day to Prague. Brno thought it would be appropriate to send us off with a rain and hail storm, so we arrived in Prague about 7pm soaked, tired and hungry. I think it was actually a mini tornado.. do they have these in Eastern europe?!!
Shit here is CHEAP. When i mean say cheap I mean I've been uncontrollably chugging down 75p pints of beers like its no tmrw, JUST becasuse its so cheap. Must be the chinese can't-miss-a-bargain blood...
Long day of sight seeing and walking tmrw. Dan keeps bugging about getting a Thai massage. Not sure if I want a huge thai mama standing on the back of my calf muscles. (shudder) Will also check out the 'Fred and Ginger dancing building', as they so delightfully put it. Its a deconstructive movement inspired building by the Architect Frank Gehry.
Heading from Krakow was our first steps back westwards... and home. Next will be Berlin, Copenhagen, Holland, Luxembourg, Brussels, Calais, then home. Stopping off at a few smaller towns along the way. (if all goes to plan that is)
Forgot to mention I've been filming some of the trip with my handy camcorder. With the cunning use of my gorillapod, I managed to clamp it to the handle bars for some motogp-esque bike camera angles. Mostly of Dan riding like a girl tho. Dan on the other hand has been practising his skill of 'sly' photography. (basically taken pics of hot girls un-awares)
OK, time to head back to the bar.
Stay peaceful my over-charged friends.
Sukz
Since Krakow we've stayed a night in Brno and then moved on the next day to Prague. Brno thought it would be appropriate to send us off with a rain and hail storm, so we arrived in Prague about 7pm soaked, tired and hungry. I think it was actually a mini tornado.. do they have these in Eastern europe?!!
Shit here is CHEAP. When i mean say cheap I mean I've been uncontrollably chugging down 75p pints of beers like its no tmrw, JUST becasuse its so cheap. Must be the chinese can't-miss-a-bargain blood...
Long day of sight seeing and walking tmrw. Dan keeps bugging about getting a Thai massage. Not sure if I want a huge thai mama standing on the back of my calf muscles. (shudder) Will also check out the 'Fred and Ginger dancing building', as they so delightfully put it. Its a deconstructive movement inspired building by the Architect Frank Gehry.
Heading from Krakow was our first steps back westwards... and home. Next will be Berlin, Copenhagen, Holland, Luxembourg, Brussels, Calais, then home. Stopping off at a few smaller towns along the way. (if all goes to plan that is)
Forgot to mention I've been filming some of the trip with my handy camcorder. With the cunning use of my gorillapod, I managed to clamp it to the handle bars for some motogp-esque bike camera angles. Mostly of Dan riding like a girl tho. Dan on the other hand has been practising his skill of 'sly' photography. (basically taken pics of hot girls un-awares)
OK, time to head back to the bar.
Stay peaceful my over-charged friends.
Sukz
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Auschwitz...
We went to Auschwitz today and I must say it was probably one of the most humbling experiences of my life. We visited the gas chambers, torture rooms, quarantines, barracks, saw the mountains of shoes, glasses, womens hair and other personal belongings of hundreds cheated and murdered Jews and WWII pows.
I found it difficult to imagine what it was like as the day was so beautiful. The site is situated in the countryside with trees and wildlife surrounding it. The Birkenbau site (Auschwitz II) is huge. Almost as far as the eye can see. A truly gigantic factory of efficient mass genocide. Quite overwhelming.
I didn't talk much during the visit and even refrained from taking photos of some of the exhibits when everyone else was sneakily taking pics where we weren't allowed. We spent about 4 hours there in total visiting two of the three sites.
Sort of puts things into perspective when visiting a place like this. We have it good and we need to keep reminding ourselves that once in a while to maintain a little level of humility.
Just got back from the cheapest and most filling meal ever. Poland is as cheap as chips! Dan almost lost my spare bike keys and all the photos we have taken during the trip by leaving his bag in the restaurant. Was too busy checking out the waitresses..
We've reached the most eastern point that we're going to travel. So we're kinda heading home now... westwards. Brno next...
S.
I found it difficult to imagine what it was like as the day was so beautiful. The site is situated in the countryside with trees and wildlife surrounding it. The Birkenbau site (Auschwitz II) is huge. Almost as far as the eye can see. A truly gigantic factory of efficient mass genocide. Quite overwhelming.
I didn't talk much during the visit and even refrained from taking photos of some of the exhibits when everyone else was sneakily taking pics where we weren't allowed. We spent about 4 hours there in total visiting two of the three sites.
Sort of puts things into perspective when visiting a place like this. We have it good and we need to keep reminding ourselves that once in a while to maintain a little level of humility.
Just got back from the cheapest and most filling meal ever. Poland is as cheap as chips! Dan almost lost my spare bike keys and all the photos we have taken during the trip by leaving his bag in the restaurant. Was too busy checking out the waitresses..
We've reached the most eastern point that we're going to travel. So we're kinda heading home now... westwards. Brno next...
S.
Saturday, September 22, 2007
Busted in Budapest...
It had to happen. It would be too good to be true otherwise. Yes. We got busted by the fuzz... the pigs... the rozzers... the long arm of the Hungarian law... Only a couple of kms to go before the Slovakian border and we get pulled over by two coppers in an unmarked Polizia car in a small village in the north of Hungary. 'Penalty'... '10000 florints'.. i heard him mutter. 'Fuck'. We were apparently doing 75k in a 50k area. He showed me a ticket which we were supposed to fill in and take to the post office on monday. Today being saturday and everything was already closed for the weekend. We're not staying an extra 2 days in Hungary just because of a frickin speeding ticket! We each had our own copper interrogating us... my one was a dead serious and utterly expressionless... and not succumbing to my biker talk charms... Dan on ther other hand was doing much better with his, so I said... ' he's got all my money...' ask him...'.
I thought to myself... Dan .... be cool man... He's known to occasionally create a fuss if he feels a need to stand up for his principles... But to my surprise the fella held his own and managed to wiggle us out of the situation as long as we paid a personal 'toll' charge... So, after sneakily slipping a couple of tens of thousand of Florints (about 30 quid in all) we were on our way again! We were actually quite relieved after and agreed that it had to happen one day.. like some kind of rite of passage for a biker touring in Eastern Europe.
Since Ljublijana and my last post we've been stormed in in Bled, then to Graz in Austria, nezt day to Budapest in Hungary for 2 nights, then today rode straight through Slovakia from the south border to the north and now are in Krakow, Poland.
Theres so much I could write, but obviously, i don't quite have the time right now not matter how much i would like to. I've been keeping a shorthand diary to remind myself and will write up everything when i get back.
Here are some interesting but generally useless and pointless facts about the trip so far. I can't listen to my mp3 player so I have been singing to myself when riding for long periods. These include... Save myself (willy mason), the soup song (mighty boosh), i want to ride my bicycle/ I want to break free (queen), Fake plastic trees (radiohead), Siboney (latin jazz standard) and the superman theme.
Been reading a book called 'Watching the English'. Its a anthropological book describing the quintissential rules to being british. I've found that in general I am... but some aspects I subconsciously, actively, refrian against. After reading this book, I've found myself analysing Dan like some kind of anthropological specimin. I've been creating a list of 'Danisms'. A list of things he does and says. He's a weird fellow really. Will post them when i get back.
My hair is very long now. I've been growing a little travel goatie. I got myself a pair of bruce lee 70s sunglasses. So at the moment, I kinda look like some kinda of hippy, jazz musician reject chinaman from the 70s...
Jeez... theres always a million interesting things i think about writing when I'm riding, then i forget everything when i get to a computer. It might partially be because I'm a little drunk on cheap 3 euro wine at the moment.
In generall the trip has been a blast. Unlike anything i've ever done. The solitary nature of riding allow a lot of room for thought and its almost like a form of meditation. It's become a little trip of self spiritual self discovery. 7 straight hours on the road can really free your mind...
Ok, dunno what else to say now apart from get off the computer and go do exercise cos you know you should. :)
until next time my friends.... as always... look after yourselves and each other people...
Suki Man
A Moski.
I thought to myself... Dan .... be cool man... He's known to occasionally create a fuss if he feels a need to stand up for his principles... But to my surprise the fella held his own and managed to wiggle us out of the situation as long as we paid a personal 'toll' charge... So, after sneakily slipping a couple of tens of thousand of Florints (about 30 quid in all) we were on our way again! We were actually quite relieved after and agreed that it had to happen one day.. like some kind of rite of passage for a biker touring in Eastern Europe.
Since Ljublijana and my last post we've been stormed in in Bled, then to Graz in Austria, nezt day to Budapest in Hungary for 2 nights, then today rode straight through Slovakia from the south border to the north and now are in Krakow, Poland.
Theres so much I could write, but obviously, i don't quite have the time right now not matter how much i would like to. I've been keeping a shorthand diary to remind myself and will write up everything when i get back.
Here are some interesting but generally useless and pointless facts about the trip so far. I can't listen to my mp3 player so I have been singing to myself when riding for long periods. These include... Save myself (willy mason), the soup song (mighty boosh), i want to ride my bicycle/ I want to break free (queen), Fake plastic trees (radiohead), Siboney (latin jazz standard) and the superman theme.
Been reading a book called 'Watching the English'. Its a anthropological book describing the quintissential rules to being british. I've found that in general I am... but some aspects I subconsciously, actively, refrian against. After reading this book, I've found myself analysing Dan like some kind of anthropological specimin. I've been creating a list of 'Danisms'. A list of things he does and says. He's a weird fellow really. Will post them when i get back.
My hair is very long now. I've been growing a little travel goatie. I got myself a pair of bruce lee 70s sunglasses. So at the moment, I kinda look like some kinda of hippy, jazz musician reject chinaman from the 70s...
Jeez... theres always a million interesting things i think about writing when I'm riding, then i forget everything when i get to a computer. It might partially be because I'm a little drunk on cheap 3 euro wine at the moment.
In generall the trip has been a blast. Unlike anything i've ever done. The solitary nature of riding allow a lot of room for thought and its almost like a form of meditation. It's become a little trip of self spiritual self discovery. 7 straight hours on the road can really free your mind...
Ok, dunno what else to say now apart from get off the computer and go do exercise cos you know you should. :)
until next time my friends.... as always... look after yourselves and each other people...
Suki Man
A Moski.
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Lovely Ljublijana...
Day 10. Finally I got some free internet access! Cant type for too long tho. The keyboard keys are in all different places and there are other people waiting too. Staying in Ljublijana in Slovenia at the moment. In a place called Hostel Celica, which is a former prison which has been renovated to a funky new youth hostel... The town is pretty young and lively. Loud cars, bikes, live music and bars etc... Although, I did just have the honour of witnessing Slovenia's karaoke rendition of Linkin Park's 'Numb' in the public square... Nil Point I'm afraid says Terry... It was followed by some kind of 'are you being served' performance... quite random and bizarre...!
Rode here today from Venice where we spent one evening. Second time I've been there... but still a special place...31 degrees tho... woo!... before that we were in Verona spending a night is a hostel villa up on the hill. Beautiful place and the food was incredible. Cooked by the resident old italian mama at the hostel. Best lasagne and pasta hands down. Met a funny fella there from guildford who had apparently got sacked from a job in a local town, stole 200 euros from them, got chased by the police, spent 2 weeks hiding in this hostel and has not a cent to his name. Asked me to do him a favour by taking a letter/film script to his mate in london... asked me not to read it... but we'll see about that...
Bikes have been performing beautifully.... thank goodness... no leaks or funny goings on... actually I lie... the speedometer doesn't work, which means no indication of fuel level either... and the wheels aren't aligned properly after me botch job of adjusting the chain 2 minutes before i left for folkestone! But all in all, Susie is still keeping me going and I'm grateful for that..
Just read my last blog. it makes no sense. Don't read it. I only had 10 mins to write it... PLease ignore my bad grammar/spelling or any other irregularities... not really got the time to proof read these blogs!
Oh some news... gonna be extending my trip by another two weeks cos of dan's change of plan... we figured this will probably be the only time we're going to be able to do this... so lets do it properly eh! apologies to my students... people i promised studio time with and everyone else who i've most likely inconvenienced....
Ok enough for now. Will update you guy soon...! be well all... peace...
Sukz
Rode here today from Venice where we spent one evening. Second time I've been there... but still a special place...31 degrees tho... woo!... before that we were in Verona spending a night is a hostel villa up on the hill. Beautiful place and the food was incredible. Cooked by the resident old italian mama at the hostel. Best lasagne and pasta hands down. Met a funny fella there from guildford who had apparently got sacked from a job in a local town, stole 200 euros from them, got chased by the police, spent 2 weeks hiding in this hostel and has not a cent to his name. Asked me to do him a favour by taking a letter/film script to his mate in london... asked me not to read it... but we'll see about that...
Bikes have been performing beautifully.... thank goodness... no leaks or funny goings on... actually I lie... the speedometer doesn't work, which means no indication of fuel level either... and the wheels aren't aligned properly after me botch job of adjusting the chain 2 minutes before i left for folkestone! But all in all, Susie is still keeping me going and I'm grateful for that..
Just read my last blog. it makes no sense. Don't read it. I only had 10 mins to write it... PLease ignore my bad grammar/spelling or any other irregularities... not really got the time to proof read these blogs!
Oh some news... gonna be extending my trip by another two weeks cos of dan's change of plan... we figured this will probably be the only time we're going to be able to do this... so lets do it properly eh! apologies to my students... people i promised studio time with and everyone else who i've most likely inconvenienced....
Ok enough for now. Will update you guy soon...! be well all... peace...
Sukz
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