I'm ill. Arse. Must have been the riding through the storm and thinking I could get away with just walking through Berlin with just a t shirt. That, and the plentiful and huge Bavavria beers we had when we met up with Dan's friends in the city. Its 6am now and I can't sleep.
We only spent 2 days in Berlin. One was spent riding there, and the other was spent visiting the Jewish Museum by Daniel Libeskind and drinking in a beautifully designed german pub directly under a railway bridge. The Museum was truly breaktaking and solely worth the visit to Berlin and we had a great night out with a pair of newlyweds that Dan used to work with.
Other than that we kinda missed the rest of Berlin because of the rain. It was a shame really. Didn't get to see the BrandenBurg gate properly or any of the other sites. This was also partly because the weekend we arrived they had like 3 city events going on and many main roads were shut off. (one being a marathon) Which also meant we paid extortionate prices for a hostel in the ghetto of Berlin.
One thing I forgot to mention was that while we were in Prague we decided to treat ourselves by going for a traditional Thai massage. I thought, after 3 weeks of solid riding, a relaxing massage would be well received. Little did I know it would be one of the most violent experiences of my life... She 'proper beat the living shit out of me'. She cracked ALL my joints, thumped me, bent me over backwards in some contorted WWF position and kicked me up in the air... had me in sleeper holds and tried bending things that werent meant to ever be bent. She was a joker as well. A tiny little thai woman with short chunky little musclar arms. She giggled a lot and talked a lot of crap in very bad english. But it was funny as hell. She kept stroking my leg hairs and goatie, which I'm sure isn't a traditional thai 'move', and kept saying... Ooooo sexy man... funny bitch.
Since Berlin we visiting Hannover and stayed for one night and then today moved onto Koln, where we're going to be staying for 4 days. Therefore... at last we can get some rest without having to wakeup at 9am to check out or do any manic siteseeing. Ah bliss. I'm going to go window shopping, read my book, eat giant Bratwurst and drink good cheap coffee. Now thats a holiday.
We're using Koln as a base to visit nearby frankfurt for a bit and then.... yes. TO the BEHEMOTH. The NURBURGRING!!! Theres an open track day on wednesday. 14 miles of pure racing pedigree track. WIll try to video the thing, but I'll if I want to risk losing my camcorder or not...
After this we're off to Utrect and Amsterdam for a few days to wind down before heading back home. Will back end of next week now. Gone by so quickly. I could do this forever...
Kinda.
S.
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Czeching in...
Lame joke I know, but the place I'm staying in in Prague is actually called the Czech Inn. Its super modern here and quite luxurious. Designed by a local architect who apparently works at the reception??!! We're in a 12 bed dorm with a couple of brit girls and a few aussie lads.
Since Krakow we've stayed a night in Brno and then moved on the next day to Prague. Brno thought it would be appropriate to send us off with a rain and hail storm, so we arrived in Prague about 7pm soaked, tired and hungry. I think it was actually a mini tornado.. do they have these in Eastern europe?!!
Shit here is CHEAP. When i mean say cheap I mean I've been uncontrollably chugging down 75p pints of beers like its no tmrw, JUST becasuse its so cheap. Must be the chinese can't-miss-a-bargain blood...
Long day of sight seeing and walking tmrw. Dan keeps bugging about getting a Thai massage. Not sure if I want a huge thai mama standing on the back of my calf muscles. (shudder) Will also check out the 'Fred and Ginger dancing building', as they so delightfully put it. Its a deconstructive movement inspired building by the Architect Frank Gehry.
Heading from Krakow was our first steps back westwards... and home. Next will be Berlin, Copenhagen, Holland, Luxembourg, Brussels, Calais, then home. Stopping off at a few smaller towns along the way. (if all goes to plan that is)
Forgot to mention I've been filming some of the trip with my handy camcorder. With the cunning use of my gorillapod, I managed to clamp it to the handle bars for some motogp-esque bike camera angles. Mostly of Dan riding like a girl tho. Dan on the other hand has been practising his skill of 'sly' photography. (basically taken pics of hot girls un-awares)
OK, time to head back to the bar.
Stay peaceful my over-charged friends.
Sukz
Since Krakow we've stayed a night in Brno and then moved on the next day to Prague. Brno thought it would be appropriate to send us off with a rain and hail storm, so we arrived in Prague about 7pm soaked, tired and hungry. I think it was actually a mini tornado.. do they have these in Eastern europe?!!
Shit here is CHEAP. When i mean say cheap I mean I've been uncontrollably chugging down 75p pints of beers like its no tmrw, JUST becasuse its so cheap. Must be the chinese can't-miss-a-bargain blood...
Long day of sight seeing and walking tmrw. Dan keeps bugging about getting a Thai massage. Not sure if I want a huge thai mama standing on the back of my calf muscles. (shudder) Will also check out the 'Fred and Ginger dancing building', as they so delightfully put it. Its a deconstructive movement inspired building by the Architect Frank Gehry.
Heading from Krakow was our first steps back westwards... and home. Next will be Berlin, Copenhagen, Holland, Luxembourg, Brussels, Calais, then home. Stopping off at a few smaller towns along the way. (if all goes to plan that is)
Forgot to mention I've been filming some of the trip with my handy camcorder. With the cunning use of my gorillapod, I managed to clamp it to the handle bars for some motogp-esque bike camera angles. Mostly of Dan riding like a girl tho. Dan on the other hand has been practising his skill of 'sly' photography. (basically taken pics of hot girls un-awares)
OK, time to head back to the bar.
Stay peaceful my over-charged friends.
Sukz
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Auschwitz...
We went to Auschwitz today and I must say it was probably one of the most humbling experiences of my life. We visited the gas chambers, torture rooms, quarantines, barracks, saw the mountains of shoes, glasses, womens hair and other personal belongings of hundreds cheated and murdered Jews and WWII pows.
I found it difficult to imagine what it was like as the day was so beautiful. The site is situated in the countryside with trees and wildlife surrounding it. The Birkenbau site (Auschwitz II) is huge. Almost as far as the eye can see. A truly gigantic factory of efficient mass genocide. Quite overwhelming.
I didn't talk much during the visit and even refrained from taking photos of some of the exhibits when everyone else was sneakily taking pics where we weren't allowed. We spent about 4 hours there in total visiting two of the three sites.
Sort of puts things into perspective when visiting a place like this. We have it good and we need to keep reminding ourselves that once in a while to maintain a little level of humility.
Just got back from the cheapest and most filling meal ever. Poland is as cheap as chips! Dan almost lost my spare bike keys and all the photos we have taken during the trip by leaving his bag in the restaurant. Was too busy checking out the waitresses..
We've reached the most eastern point that we're going to travel. So we're kinda heading home now... westwards. Brno next...
S.
I found it difficult to imagine what it was like as the day was so beautiful. The site is situated in the countryside with trees and wildlife surrounding it. The Birkenbau site (Auschwitz II) is huge. Almost as far as the eye can see. A truly gigantic factory of efficient mass genocide. Quite overwhelming.
I didn't talk much during the visit and even refrained from taking photos of some of the exhibits when everyone else was sneakily taking pics where we weren't allowed. We spent about 4 hours there in total visiting two of the three sites.
Sort of puts things into perspective when visiting a place like this. We have it good and we need to keep reminding ourselves that once in a while to maintain a little level of humility.
Just got back from the cheapest and most filling meal ever. Poland is as cheap as chips! Dan almost lost my spare bike keys and all the photos we have taken during the trip by leaving his bag in the restaurant. Was too busy checking out the waitresses..
We've reached the most eastern point that we're going to travel. So we're kinda heading home now... westwards. Brno next...
S.
Saturday, September 22, 2007
Busted in Budapest...
It had to happen. It would be too good to be true otherwise. Yes. We got busted by the fuzz... the pigs... the rozzers... the long arm of the Hungarian law... Only a couple of kms to go before the Slovakian border and we get pulled over by two coppers in an unmarked Polizia car in a small village in the north of Hungary. 'Penalty'... '10000 florints'.. i heard him mutter. 'Fuck'. We were apparently doing 75k in a 50k area. He showed me a ticket which we were supposed to fill in and take to the post office on monday. Today being saturday and everything was already closed for the weekend. We're not staying an extra 2 days in Hungary just because of a frickin speeding ticket! We each had our own copper interrogating us... my one was a dead serious and utterly expressionless... and not succumbing to my biker talk charms... Dan on ther other hand was doing much better with his, so I said... ' he's got all my money...' ask him...'.
I thought to myself... Dan .... be cool man... He's known to occasionally create a fuss if he feels a need to stand up for his principles... But to my surprise the fella held his own and managed to wiggle us out of the situation as long as we paid a personal 'toll' charge... So, after sneakily slipping a couple of tens of thousand of Florints (about 30 quid in all) we were on our way again! We were actually quite relieved after and agreed that it had to happen one day.. like some kind of rite of passage for a biker touring in Eastern Europe.
Since Ljublijana and my last post we've been stormed in in Bled, then to Graz in Austria, nezt day to Budapest in Hungary for 2 nights, then today rode straight through Slovakia from the south border to the north and now are in Krakow, Poland.
Theres so much I could write, but obviously, i don't quite have the time right now not matter how much i would like to. I've been keeping a shorthand diary to remind myself and will write up everything when i get back.
Here are some interesting but generally useless and pointless facts about the trip so far. I can't listen to my mp3 player so I have been singing to myself when riding for long periods. These include... Save myself (willy mason), the soup song (mighty boosh), i want to ride my bicycle/ I want to break free (queen), Fake plastic trees (radiohead), Siboney (latin jazz standard) and the superman theme.
Been reading a book called 'Watching the English'. Its a anthropological book describing the quintissential rules to being british. I've found that in general I am... but some aspects I subconsciously, actively, refrian against. After reading this book, I've found myself analysing Dan like some kind of anthropological specimin. I've been creating a list of 'Danisms'. A list of things he does and says. He's a weird fellow really. Will post them when i get back.
My hair is very long now. I've been growing a little travel goatie. I got myself a pair of bruce lee 70s sunglasses. So at the moment, I kinda look like some kinda of hippy, jazz musician reject chinaman from the 70s...
Jeez... theres always a million interesting things i think about writing when I'm riding, then i forget everything when i get to a computer. It might partially be because I'm a little drunk on cheap 3 euro wine at the moment.
In generall the trip has been a blast. Unlike anything i've ever done. The solitary nature of riding allow a lot of room for thought and its almost like a form of meditation. It's become a little trip of self spiritual self discovery. 7 straight hours on the road can really free your mind...
Ok, dunno what else to say now apart from get off the computer and go do exercise cos you know you should. :)
until next time my friends.... as always... look after yourselves and each other people...
Suki Man
A Moski.
I thought to myself... Dan .... be cool man... He's known to occasionally create a fuss if he feels a need to stand up for his principles... But to my surprise the fella held his own and managed to wiggle us out of the situation as long as we paid a personal 'toll' charge... So, after sneakily slipping a couple of tens of thousand of Florints (about 30 quid in all) we were on our way again! We were actually quite relieved after and agreed that it had to happen one day.. like some kind of rite of passage for a biker touring in Eastern Europe.
Since Ljublijana and my last post we've been stormed in in Bled, then to Graz in Austria, nezt day to Budapest in Hungary for 2 nights, then today rode straight through Slovakia from the south border to the north and now are in Krakow, Poland.
Theres so much I could write, but obviously, i don't quite have the time right now not matter how much i would like to. I've been keeping a shorthand diary to remind myself and will write up everything when i get back.
Here are some interesting but generally useless and pointless facts about the trip so far. I can't listen to my mp3 player so I have been singing to myself when riding for long periods. These include... Save myself (willy mason), the soup song (mighty boosh), i want to ride my bicycle/ I want to break free (queen), Fake plastic trees (radiohead), Siboney (latin jazz standard) and the superman theme.
Been reading a book called 'Watching the English'. Its a anthropological book describing the quintissential rules to being british. I've found that in general I am... but some aspects I subconsciously, actively, refrian against. After reading this book, I've found myself analysing Dan like some kind of anthropological specimin. I've been creating a list of 'Danisms'. A list of things he does and says. He's a weird fellow really. Will post them when i get back.
My hair is very long now. I've been growing a little travel goatie. I got myself a pair of bruce lee 70s sunglasses. So at the moment, I kinda look like some kinda of hippy, jazz musician reject chinaman from the 70s...
Jeez... theres always a million interesting things i think about writing when I'm riding, then i forget everything when i get to a computer. It might partially be because I'm a little drunk on cheap 3 euro wine at the moment.
In generall the trip has been a blast. Unlike anything i've ever done. The solitary nature of riding allow a lot of room for thought and its almost like a form of meditation. It's become a little trip of self spiritual self discovery. 7 straight hours on the road can really free your mind...
Ok, dunno what else to say now apart from get off the computer and go do exercise cos you know you should. :)
until next time my friends.... as always... look after yourselves and each other people...
Suki Man
A Moski.
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Lovely Ljublijana...
Day 10. Finally I got some free internet access! Cant type for too long tho. The keyboard keys are in all different places and there are other people waiting too. Staying in Ljublijana in Slovenia at the moment. In a place called Hostel Celica, which is a former prison which has been renovated to a funky new youth hostel... The town is pretty young and lively. Loud cars, bikes, live music and bars etc... Although, I did just have the honour of witnessing Slovenia's karaoke rendition of Linkin Park's 'Numb' in the public square... Nil Point I'm afraid says Terry... It was followed by some kind of 'are you being served' performance... quite random and bizarre...!
Rode here today from Venice where we spent one evening. Second time I've been there... but still a special place...31 degrees tho... woo!... before that we were in Verona spending a night is a hostel villa up on the hill. Beautiful place and the food was incredible. Cooked by the resident old italian mama at the hostel. Best lasagne and pasta hands down. Met a funny fella there from guildford who had apparently got sacked from a job in a local town, stole 200 euros from them, got chased by the police, spent 2 weeks hiding in this hostel and has not a cent to his name. Asked me to do him a favour by taking a letter/film script to his mate in london... asked me not to read it... but we'll see about that...
Bikes have been performing beautifully.... thank goodness... no leaks or funny goings on... actually I lie... the speedometer doesn't work, which means no indication of fuel level either... and the wheels aren't aligned properly after me botch job of adjusting the chain 2 minutes before i left for folkestone! But all in all, Susie is still keeping me going and I'm grateful for that..
Just read my last blog. it makes no sense. Don't read it. I only had 10 mins to write it... PLease ignore my bad grammar/spelling or any other irregularities... not really got the time to proof read these blogs!
Oh some news... gonna be extending my trip by another two weeks cos of dan's change of plan... we figured this will probably be the only time we're going to be able to do this... so lets do it properly eh! apologies to my students... people i promised studio time with and everyone else who i've most likely inconvenienced....
Ok enough for now. Will update you guy soon...! be well all... peace...
Sukz
Rode here today from Venice where we spent one evening. Second time I've been there... but still a special place...31 degrees tho... woo!... before that we were in Verona spending a night is a hostel villa up on the hill. Beautiful place and the food was incredible. Cooked by the resident old italian mama at the hostel. Best lasagne and pasta hands down. Met a funny fella there from guildford who had apparently got sacked from a job in a local town, stole 200 euros from them, got chased by the police, spent 2 weeks hiding in this hostel and has not a cent to his name. Asked me to do him a favour by taking a letter/film script to his mate in london... asked me not to read it... but we'll see about that...
Bikes have been performing beautifully.... thank goodness... no leaks or funny goings on... actually I lie... the speedometer doesn't work, which means no indication of fuel level either... and the wheels aren't aligned properly after me botch job of adjusting the chain 2 minutes before i left for folkestone! But all in all, Susie is still keeping me going and I'm grateful for that..
Just read my last blog. it makes no sense. Don't read it. I only had 10 mins to write it... PLease ignore my bad grammar/spelling or any other irregularities... not really got the time to proof read these blogs!
Oh some news... gonna be extending my trip by another two weeks cos of dan's change of plan... we figured this will probably be the only time we're going to be able to do this... so lets do it properly eh! apologies to my students... people i promised studio time with and everyone else who i've most likely inconvenienced....
Ok enough for now. Will update you guy soon...! be well all... peace...
Sukz
Thursday, September 13, 2007
6 days on the road...
I'm in Lugano, in the south of Switzerland now, staying at the Monterina Hostel. Been riding 6 days straight from London and its been... well, incredible. We've ridden from Calais to Reims, the Champagne capital, then through stunning Vineyard lined country roads to Dijon. But the best was yet to come. As soon as we entered Switzerland we were in awe. I think we've actually covered some of the world's most beautiful riding roads there are. Winding S bends and hairpins up and down the faces of the Alps. We've spent 3 days just riding a long way around them, in the middle staying at a mountain chalet with an incredible view. Its a shame theres no way of uploading any photos yet, so I guess you'll have to wait until I come back. I've been a bit over enthusiastic about the toe scraping on the low bends and half of my new oxtar boots are gone already!
So far accomodation has been all dorms in hostels. We came across a wave of aussies and kiwis following the world cup in France and now its a mix of everyone. The quality of the hostels are great, mainly pretty clean. Not camped yet tho! Not really found a right place, but will do hopefully.
In summary, the most poignant incidents so far have been.... my sleeping bag falling off the back of my bike almost knocking Dan out in the process. Me dropping my bike on my leg spraining my knee (don't worry its ok) after trying to attach my panniers. Engine oil leaking from the casing during the motorway due to a loose screw and... getting losts for hours in Dijon... the one way road capital of the world... :)
Covered about 1000 miles now. One more night here, then onto Verona, Venice, Budapest, Prague and Krakow... Theres not much opportunity to use the internet, so updating will probably be quite slow, and besides we're enjoying ourselves too much! Hope all are well, will update soon!
Look after yourselves and each other people...
Sukz
So far accomodation has been all dorms in hostels. We came across a wave of aussies and kiwis following the world cup in France and now its a mix of everyone. The quality of the hostels are great, mainly pretty clean. Not camped yet tho! Not really found a right place, but will do hopefully.
In summary, the most poignant incidents so far have been.... my sleeping bag falling off the back of my bike almost knocking Dan out in the process. Me dropping my bike on my leg spraining my knee (don't worry its ok) after trying to attach my panniers. Engine oil leaking from the casing during the motorway due to a loose screw and... getting losts for hours in Dijon... the one way road capital of the world... :)
Covered about 1000 miles now. One more night here, then onto Verona, Venice, Budapest, Prague and Krakow... Theres not much opportunity to use the internet, so updating will probably be quite slow, and besides we're enjoying ourselves too much! Hope all are well, will update soon!
Look after yourselves and each other people...
Sukz
Thursday, September 6, 2007
I'm outta here...
I thought adventures we're meant to be exciting and enjoyable? We haven't even left yet and so far its been a real struggle! It wouldn't have been so bad if I hadn't decided to service my Suzuki Bandit myself 2 days before departure date, only for a spark plug to snap and lodge itself firmly halfway inside my engine! Everything other aspect of the service was perfect. Change brake lines, brake fluid, adjust the chain, fit the rack and box, change the air filter, oil filter, engine oil etc.... It had to be the simplest thing. Spark plugs...
'£500', the suzuki dealship said. 'We'd have it done in a week for ya mate'. A week?!!! Hell no! Luckily I knew a car mechanic who thought he'd have a crack at it. So after 3 straight days of grueling engine stripping, tinkering and general bashing about he managed to restore my baby to her former glory. Phew. Although, I did have to reschedule my eurotunnel ticket and buy parts for the repair, both of which rinsed my wallet. But it was ok. I'm still going. I wasn't going to let anything spoil my mini adventure.
So. Here we are. 2.20am and I've just finished packing. Most of everything organised. Equipment, clothes, maps and radios packed, bike serviced (albeit, badly by me). Documents filed and ready. Banks notified of my oncoming debt. Nothing left to do but ride the bike! Most articles on european motobike touring say forget the planning and just go. We did that last time we went to Snowdon on the bikes where we learnt a few valuable lessons about waterproofing... This time we're not leaving anything to chance!
First stop. Reims in France. Better brush up the ol' francais, else we'll be eating mini rolls for breakfast. Although, from my previous experiences, the French have been very hospitable and friendly. Not sure if the urban myth about 'if you speak to them in English they'll be rude to you, if you try a bit of french, they'll coem across friendly, helpful and will speak english back to you' really applies. We'll see when Dan takes out his 'Big Tourist Picture Book' and eagerly points at a photo of a toilet seat.
I will try my best to update this blog whenever I can get to a computer, but time is tight and we're planning on doing a lot of camping, so may not be able to get to internet access so regularly. Got to wake up at 5.45pm to make our way over to folkestone for the train. Its getting interesting already....
S.
'£500', the suzuki dealship said. 'We'd have it done in a week for ya mate'. A week?!!! Hell no! Luckily I knew a car mechanic who thought he'd have a crack at it. So after 3 straight days of grueling engine stripping, tinkering and general bashing about he managed to restore my baby to her former glory. Phew. Although, I did have to reschedule my eurotunnel ticket and buy parts for the repair, both of which rinsed my wallet. But it was ok. I'm still going. I wasn't going to let anything spoil my mini adventure.
So. Here we are. 2.20am and I've just finished packing. Most of everything organised. Equipment, clothes, maps and radios packed, bike serviced (albeit, badly by me). Documents filed and ready. Banks notified of my oncoming debt. Nothing left to do but ride the bike! Most articles on european motobike touring say forget the planning and just go. We did that last time we went to Snowdon on the bikes where we learnt a few valuable lessons about waterproofing... This time we're not leaving anything to chance!
First stop. Reims in France. Better brush up the ol' francais, else we'll be eating mini rolls for breakfast. Although, from my previous experiences, the French have been very hospitable and friendly. Not sure if the urban myth about 'if you speak to them in English they'll be rude to you, if you try a bit of french, they'll coem across friendly, helpful and will speak english back to you' really applies. We'll see when Dan takes out his 'Big Tourist Picture Book' and eagerly points at a photo of a toilet seat.
I will try my best to update this blog whenever I can get to a computer, but time is tight and we're planning on doing a lot of camping, so may not be able to get to internet access so regularly. Got to wake up at 5.45pm to make our way over to folkestone for the train. Its getting interesting already....
S.
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